Відео

I bought an older home(1973) and all the weep holes around the brick foundation were plugged with liquid nails. I tried chiseling a few with no luck. Any ideas of how to open them? It has a crawl space.

Wouldn't you take into effect if the home had mold?

That's not what she asked

That's not her question.

Foil radiant barrier vs spray-on?

Hey guys. I have a barn shaped house. No attic. The roof has 6" rafters. There is no ridge vent. Currently on hot days the moisture has come through the drywall tape. I cut some of the ceiling drywall off and it was moist with some mold. Will a ridge vent be enough? If not, what else can be done? No soffets either.

I had water coming in the ridge vent during heavy rain/high winds until I covered the ridge vents. Thanks for all you do. I don't remember what the effect is called but soffits gables and ridge was bad for me. Fixed now

I wish you talked a bit about why the foam insulation won’t work. It seems to be the best way to insulate based on everyone. I’m confused now.

You sure that would stick?

Flex ducts…. In the attic…. Horrible efficiency!!! Never in my homes

Ducts in the attic (oven) is insane… yet common.

Don’t use sheet metal to cover hole. Use plywood bc the shingles need to be nailed into the decking, and it’s hard to nail a shingle into sheet metal

I am gc in Utah going up is cheaper then bumping out.done that projects

These guys can’t answer a basic ventilation question without talking about features the customers don’t even have on their roof systems. They do this in almost every video they have which results in the customers question not being answered correctly. 🙄

is liquid chlorine safe to store outside in a rubbermaid container?

Sir you are so wrong. All water pressure will bleed out all air and then your back to where you started.water hammer is from air trapped in the system

Stupid!! You would think this was gold or a sacred object to be worshipped instead of an inanimate thing to meet "my" needs and wants. Never did answer the question.

Here's my advice. Buy a home with a well designed vented attic with lots of insulation, and preferably no HVAC equipment in the attic. Open cell spray foam will also absorb water.

I have a stain that seems to be slowly growing (2-3 ft long) that is in the doorway between my bedroom and family room. I believe it to be a crack in the slab that is causing the stain. I have tried to clean the carpet but nothing seems to work. What can I do to fix this. My home was built in 2018. Thanks Shermanita Mercadel.

I do not like the retro look. Lol lol

Hi.Tom is have a small cabin with a cathedral roof with no soffits or vents.I have some moisture come in when very hot in the summer and some drips when using my wood stove,how can i resolve this problem .thank you

I am getting pushed to put ridge vents on a my vaulted ceiling home with 8 single roof vents already he wants to remove the roof vents and put ridge vents in and I'm not sure its the right thing to do.

Hardie says you can use finish nails except some of the lines. ua-cam.com/video/RUtZ1VTYfJs/v-deo.html

Use a formica cutter that looks simular to a utility knife and score it on the back side 3 or 4 times until almost all the way thru then you can snap it apart.

I am a professional Laminated Plastic Installer for 50 years. So I recommend using masking tape also, but use a fine combination circular saw blade or a jig saw fine tooth downward blade to cut the plastic. There is a lot of tips to install laminated plastic correctly , it takes time to learn the right procedure .

I have a 3,100sq/ft home. I only have 8 6x18 sofit vents and 3 roof vent caps. Given your ratio, I think I don't have nearly enough attic ventilation. Will definitely look into adding a ridge vent and many more sofit vents

I want to hang a light outdoor clock on my hardie siding. Is there an adhesive/putty that would allow one to hang light things with no actual injury to the siding?

Better to install a window air conditioner or ductless split system in the garage through an exterior garage wall or exterior garage window.

Here in the Philippines,when there's a typhoon,I just cover the window outside,almost no water gets in

My attic always feels much hotter than outside.

Call an electrician...D'uh! I was hoping for instructions or at least a price range for having an electrician remove this junk.

Ridge vents are designed for vaulted spaces. Not to mention they do not keep weather out near as well as a box vent or turbine vent

The end conclusion is tear the sunroom down this is a horrible video. Why don't you actually be helpful instead of joking about 80s Wendy's and give some ideas as to what could be done. Being an infomercial for local contractor is not helpful either. There's literally all sorts of compounds I'm reading about that are supposed to be applied every 7 years.

What if it’s only 3 years old

My force air heating system flows out cold air and keeps one room really cold. Is it worth changing to gas or even possible to avoid that

First of all it wasn't cut by scoring it was cut with a device called an asbestos shingle cutter. which is basically a big cast iron shear. it also has a hole punch and a notching feature. secondly, if someone has put another type of siding over it then there is no way its gonna be in decent condition if you remove the newer siding. best case scenario would be if they used a masonry drill bit to drill through before each nail or screw. in that case you would have tons of holes to fill with caulk. But that's not likely because it would be very tedious, and time consuming. Also the asbestos will dull a masonry bit very quickly so they would of went through a crap ton of bits! The far more likely scenario would be that they just nailed right through the asbestos which means that it will be shattered in pieces, and sandwiched between the exterior wall and the new siding.

Had a new AC selonoid installed. Put on an Arestor, turned off pump drained everything and still has hammering. Feels now like it’s hamming on the drain pipe that goes out the house to the pond. Starting having problems when we had a new pump installed. Any help would be greatly appreciated app. Thank you Joe

I love my Asbestos Siding, BUT Home insurance just cancelled my policy because of it, last week May-2024.. Insurance prices raised up, I got another company, they took my money and then cancelled my insurance cause I have the siding. Painted and solid, Warm in the winter and cool in the summer. I know I am one home owner not real cool right now.. Even my insurance broker can't find a new policy for me..

What do you think about gonano shingle saver?

Thankyou for answering my question.

Hi. I found your channel whilst looking for an explanation as to why my thermostat says it is 71 in my home, but the humidity is 80%, and I do not feel all that cool. Normally, at 73 F I start to feel a little chilled unless I am doing some sort of physical labour. I should be downright cold at 71. Here is the situation. Maybe you can advise me what is happening? I am in DFW. I lease an approximately 903 sq ft, single story house that was built in 1926. The owners had a brand new all electric HVAC system installed August '23. (I am not sure what tonage it is, but the outdoor unit is pretty large---definitely does not look small. My heating bill this past Winter was outrageous relative to what I use to pay in my last house which was built in the 1960s and had a gas furnace. A friend told me that the high bill was because my furnace is electric. She said electric furnaces are much more expensive to operate and cited how her house which is twice the size of her father's house and a gas furnace costs significantly less to heat than his house which has an electric furnace. I had always had gas furnaces before this, and my bill was never remotely as high as it was last Winter between November and March---close to $300 per month before I dropped the temp to 59 F and kept it there 24/7---and my electric plan is supposedly quite a low rate. Still, I found that to keep the house comfortably warm, the heat had to run at least 50 minutes of every hour---more during the coldest days and nights. Even after dropping the temp to 59 and feeling quite cold in here (the temp in my study for example was a cold 52), my heating bill only dropped to about $240. I was so chagrined. All I could do was to keep the temp set to 59 and do my best to make it through the Winter. I was worried even more about the upcoming hot months because we have triple digit temps with high humidity here pretty much all Summer. The hot and humid weather began in earnest this past April. I feel hot in the house even though the HVAC is set to 71 and reads a temp of 71 in the living room. I have little table top thermostats in each room of the house. No two areas have the same temp, but all areas have pretty high humidity---talking about 77%-80% as of May 2nd. At 71 I expect to feel uncomfortably cold, yet I feel hot and oily from the humidity. All windows and doors are kept closed, and I try not to go in and out any more than absolutely necessary (I am a retired senior). I am am very nervous to see what my upcoming electric bill will be. How can the temp in the living room, for example, read 71 yet the humidity read 80%-82% ? The HVAC thermostat is in the living room. It seems to me that if the temp is really 71, the the humidity should not read 80%, and I should. not feel uncomfortably warm and oily from the humidity. At 71, I expect the humidity should be in the 40s or 50s. If I start to do any physical labour, I sweat and feel hot. I am worried since the temps here will soar into triple digits soon. We managed to squeak by in April without any triple digit days, but I think that is because most days were either overcast with rain in the forecast, or a high pressure system had moved in and dropped the outdoor temperature to a very comfortable temp in the lower to mid 60s. We did have some days in the high 90s already in April, though. The daily highs are already changing. We are already getting temps in the mid to high 80s with overcast skies before the heat index is factored in. It is about to turn really hot soon. I would like to figure out what is going on and if there is anything to do to fix this problem. I love this house and planned to live here for many years to come, but I am beginning to worry that the high cost of trying to heat and cool this house will either force me to move or leave me to feel cold all Winter and terribly hot throughout the hot months. I appreciate any insights and advice you offer me. Thank you!!

I have a hip roof house, and the exit ventilation wasn't adequate. I added a solar fan which doubled the exit ventilation area and even more so when the fan is running. The attic temperatures fell by 10 degrees and the inside of the house was cooler during those hot summer months, and that's what I wanted. Humidity just hasn't been a problem, and the attic temperature is always well above the dewpoint. I know because I have a couple of remote calibrated temperature and humidity sensors which transmit to my base station. My attic is much closer to 1:300 ventilation than 1:150. Am I concerned? The general guidelines are meant as safe ventilation levels for generic spaces but isn't necessarily correct for all cases. I KNOW that humidity levels are well controlled as is temperature, and so I'm fine with where it is at. Temperature does matter. It will cause the living space to be warmer due to heat transfer from the attic, and it will subject roofing shingles to higher temperatures, which will shorten their life.

Under this logic a house is a depreciating asset, divided by the years you live in it. Are we not interested in a house lasting longer than our lives, so that it has resale value after our turn at ownership?

HomeShowRadio, You're so talented! I had to hit the like button!

I have a garbage disposal that is 9-14 yrs old i think. it could be even less. anyway 3 weeks ago it wuld not turn on. at all. like no hum. i had a guy come and test everything. he even found one of the plugs was exposed so he not only got it runnig but installed a new plate on there to make it safe so that the 2 wires in the socket don't touch to preven t a fire hazard potentially. then 5 days later when i went to turn it on it just didn't turn on at all. no humming. my n eibhgor came (who is good with toosl. thought there was a jam in there. got it working and i even totally claned out everything in htere. i rand it for a few shor tminutes. didn't put much of anything i there for a few days. then on Tuesdaay i had a cleaner come in and she washes thing including the sink the mext morning i removed everything from under as a pest contorl person did the inside and does something right at the pipe entrance. and i put /pusehd everything back in on thursday and then yesterday once again no humming, doens't even turn on at all. i unplugged it and pulled everything i could out. there was 2 very small pieces of something plastic in htere but i never put anything like that in there. but it wasn't caught in the blades i hit the red button under. i unplugged and plugged it in. i ried turning off and turning back on all 3 cricuits related to the kietchen. i trided an allen wrench a fw times. it seems like it is not having anything badly stuck in there although i suppose it could be. but it didnj seem all that dificult to turn. why would that keep happening?

Hey Guys! Great channel, so much amazing info! I am looking into re-insulating my attic in my 1950's home (in CA, boo I know). The quotes I am getting are astronomical with all kinds of varying information. Such as "One company is telling me that Radiant Barriers are a waste of time" I had heard the opposite in my research! Much like what you guys are saying here! Same guys are also hard selling me on an Attic Fan! I'm thinking If I do New Insulation R-38, and Radiant Barrier I should be good!?? Also, another company was poo poo'ing Old School Fiberglass Insulation (r-38) saying blown in Cellulose is the best! Honestly, I think it's the easiest for them! In and out fast and count the cash haa. They also tried to tell me that is was the most fire retardant! And that Old School fiberglass R-38 not retardant at ALL..?? If you have any comments on ANY of this stuff it would be greatly appreciated! Thank You!

How do you know if all the termites are really gone? I have plaster walls.

I bought a dryer about a year ago and there’s a poo smell.

Here in Florida, many of us have a lanai - a covered porch - at the back of the house. Many houses have the hardie siding and we actually do hang wall art and stuff out there. Not barbells, no, but decorative stuff.

Everyone I spoke to about adding a second level to our ranch was adamant that it was far cheaper than building out because there was no foundation work to be done. I stopped listening after his first sentence because of that statement. 100% inaccurate info.